Author: Amelia Hoskins

21 Mar

Rose Antique and Burgundy Kimono

Amelia Hoskins / Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

Silk and Satin Kimono Dress ' ROSE ANTIQUE'

Patchwork features hand painted habotai silk top and lower ahimsa silk painted patchwork

 

Patchworks created over burgundy polyester satine shirt/nightshirt which forms lining.  Existing collar and button welt are utilised on the outside, while patchworks are created exactly to fit over shirt shape.  The burgundy satine has a pink rose print which top fabrics coordinate with.  Sleeves have been extended some inches, with darker purple Ahimsa silk borders left over from a previously logwood-dyed silk.  Two different silk painting pieces were created to coordinate with all chosen fabrics.   Loose size fits up to 42" bust.  Model is average size.

Silk Painting (top):  Comfrey dyed Habotai silk with hand painted Roses over pale soya wax resist, Celtic Triskels and red motifs from one of the prints.  The cream silk looks antique in tone when laid over the darker burgundy.

Silk Painting (hem):  Hawthorn dyed Ahimsa silk with bundle dyed texture of Sycamore leaves, then hand painted over with leaf outlines and roses, with painted motifs copied from a coordinate.   Silk painting method below...

 

LEFT Centre:  Triskeles and Roses on Habotai silk. 

 RIGHT Left: Sycamore leaves and Roses on Ahimsa silk.

COLLAR:  Utilised from lining shirt. The outside of the shirt becomes the inside lining of Kimono.  BACK:  Burgundy colour scheme echoed in intricate centre print on voile.

Side Views

Sleeves are extended from underlying burgundy shirt to create 'kimono' style.  Dark purple remnant of a silk painting forms wide extended border.  Lined with colour coordinating viscose in lilac cloud print.  The original outline of the shirt tail slits is followed.

 

ROSE ANTIQUE BURGUNDY KIMONO available £160.00 - Direct from maker.  (new purchasing coming soon...)

FRONT BUTTONING - Upper - Middle - Lower    BUTTONS - Heart shaped painted wood.

SLEEVES  -  Lining is viscose which extends to outer sleeve to form a border with dark purple, logwood-dyed, Ahimsa painted silk patchwork.

HEM BOTTOM LAYER - Original curved slit outlines followed of underlying burgundy shirt (as lining)

Techniques used in Silk Painting preparations

SOYA WAX RESIST:  My own photos were used, all enlarged to similar size, to make paper stencil cut-outs, for comfrey-soy-waxed-roses.  Rose petal areas were roughly painted in hot soya wax.  When wax was well set, the silk was placed in a cold comfrey dye bath, which showed cracking of wax after immersion, so I squeezed the roses slightly around a centre point, which produced the cracks as lines from the centre of pale rose shapes.

STEAM PRINTED PETALS and seeds are imprinted by bundle-steam method. Result is a few colour imprints of colour in areas between the roses.  Rose petals shapes were lost by the cracking effect, so they were painted finally with a more stylized curly petals.  Triangle was cut out where something was stained.  This was utilised as neck area on kimono construction.  CONCLUSION:  This technique would be good on darker backgrounds, to be tried!

Sycamore Roses Steam Printed Leaves and Painted Roses on Ahimsa Silk

Sycamore leaf steamed bundle print produced a brown texture, interesting by itself; however for this garment, I added more over painting to match with patchwork fabric designs.  The red  outlines weren't needed; a blurred background to bring out the leaf areas would have sufficed.

10 Sep

All Natural Plant Dye Processes

Amelia Hoskins / Dye Plants, Plant Dye / / 0 Comments

CREAM  -  GOLD  -  BLUE   on Ahimsa Silk

 

 

 

Most plant dyes produce cream or gold, dyed cold or hot.  They can be modified to turn darker and some modified to turn green. Mordants are used to soak silk in first.  Modifiers are used after dye.  Blue is only achieved with English Woad.

 

Dyed samples:     Logwood purple - Eucalyptus deep gold - Woad blue - Mullein light gold - Woad blue - Hawthorn gold beiges - Iron modified - Ladies Bedstraw orange

Flora Arbuthnot's Dye Workshop

My dye experiments were inspired by first workshop attended.  We foraged locally for leaves and bark. Flora taught us about mordants to soak fabric in prior to dyeing.  See samples on Post.

Flora Arbuthnot's Bundle Dye Workshop

Bundle dyeing by steam was a quick workshop at a garden festival. Petals and seeds were spread on cloth, sprayed with vinegar, folded in tightly wrapped bundles and suspended over steaming pot.  Excellent results for backgrounds, seen on this Post background.  See samples on Post.

26 Jun

Hawthorn Berries Three Rivers Dyed Silk

Amelia Hoskins / Plant dye processes / / 0 Comments

Hawthorn Berries 1 - River Taw

Berries from Tarka Trail foraging trip along River Taw found by ditch and field growing through hazelnut and willow trees with briars and nettles.

Hawthorn (1) - Dye Bath Process

  • Soak berries for 2-3 days.
  • Boil then simmer for 1-2 hours.  Add water and re-simmer if evaporates.
  • Mash berries, remove pulp from dye pan.  Cool to hand hot.
  • Soak silk in dye bath pot overnight or for two days.
  • The longer soaked, the darker and stronger the colour.

Steeping in dye bath

Silk absorbs dye colour immediately, but some hours of soaking will deepen the tone.  Move silk occasionally to ensure all parts even

1st silk can be left in a bowl to dye stronger overnight, while keeping back some dye liquid to soak a 2nd piece, which will have a paler result.

Hawthorn Berries 2 - River Otter - Dye Process

Soak berries and simmer as Hawthorn (1).  Two silk samples were added to dye liquid when cooled and soaked in a wide copper pot for a day and a night. One was cream. The other was dull pale grey (failed woad dyed piece) which resulted in a browner result. (Colour mixing: grey + hawthorn = brown)

Comparisons - Rivers Taw - River Otter berries

Taw berries result is golden.  Otter berries result is dull fawn.  Unknown whether the different river soils affected the dye colour, or if the copper pot had an effect, which is likely.

Hawthorn Berries 3 - River Exe - Dye Process

Hawthorn Berries River Exe Sessions1,2,3,4 give 4 colour variations

Silk 1 - Lime green.   Silk 2 - Medium mauve.   Silk 3 - Silver.  Silk 4 - Pale peach

Fascinating variations obtained by use of mordants, or washing out methods, or how fresh or old/exhausted the dye bath becomes.

Exe Berries - Ahimsa Silk 1. Mauve turns Green

Large long piece of silk soaked a few hours in pre-mordanting Alum beforehand.

Good Mauve result.  Washed out in tap water, with added soap. Turned GREY, then gradually GREEN!  (Far left)

Was it the tap water?  Was it the soap?

Exe Berries - Ahimsa Silk 2.

Two dress top shapes. NO premordant alum.

Steeped 24hrs in remainder dye bath pink sludgy liquid.

Washed out in tap water - stayed a medium MAUVE. (presume due to no alum).

Exe Berries - Ahimsa Silk 3.

One long silk piece with a hem.

Placed in previous dye bath (1. and 2.)

Turned mauvish, but dried out SILVER! (Right)

Exe Berries - Ahimsa Silk 4.

Silk pre-mordanted with Alum and Cream of Tartar.

Cider vinegar from pre-soaked apple peels added to dye bath.

Placed liquid and fabric in copper pot.

Result overnight - pale peach.

29 May

Dress Design Adaptations

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Upcycle makeover / / 0 Comments

Asymmetrical Cuts - Two dresses [SOLD] with diagonal cut features which enable panels to be joined at angles to flare the skirt section.

Purple Electric Asymmetrical Dress. (Sold)

Inspiration was two prints; white linen with lilac flowers and white cotton with abstract lilac illustrations.

Coordinating purple salt-splashed dyed silk top forms the soft bodice top.  Linen and cotton prints cut into rectangular panels joined to the top silk diagonals front and back.  Slashing the purple top diagonally gave a bias edge from which to attach the lower cotton and linen print rectangular sections which form a flare over hips as fabric falls.

The sleeve outline was followed but floral linen sleeves are added to shape contour.  Hem is therefore made integrally by this method, as a 'handkerchief' style with angles as a style feature.  Purple piped edges holds all the pieces together and purple linen is repeated in hem pieces.

(See Making Gallery bottom post)

Design Construction: Top with added panels

Often there are pretty tops which can have lower panels added to make a dress.  Shapes can be cut from tops and dresses, to create the princess front and back points.  Fabric from dress, or frills and lace can be added to top 'V' shape edges, with panels sewn behind.  Front centre lower panel is ecru linen embroidered. Black and cream print panels. Side panels are hand painted silk with grey rabbit designs.  Neck shape was original with top, but a contrast print could be used.     [Rabbits dress SOLD]

Mushroom and Black 'V' panelled long dress

Asymmetrical cut bodice top with added linen 2 inch border with black picot seam insert.  Skirt section of cream and black print panels, with embroidered linen front piece.  Side painted silk panels with rabbits.

02 Mar

Silk Painting dresses Kokopelli and Persian Piri

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

Two dresses featuring silk paintings of mythical figures from two different cultures.  Piri from Persian art meaning beautiful and graceful girl, or supernatural being similar to angels.   Kokopelli the flute playing seed spreader from southwestern Native Americas.

Persian Piri - Dress with 'Piri' feature silk painting

We get our word fairy from peri/feri winged spirit in Persian mythology. Fairy comes to us from Arabic which has no 'p'.

Dress modelled at Exeter Cathedral Green Craft Fair before crimson sash was added.  The sash echoes the sash in the painting. Dress began life as a short top without sleeves, collar, or lower frills: from an earlier created range with the Piri silk painting rectangles. A deep teal blue version was sold.  After finding the yellow ocre lace blouse in exact colour match; the collar, sleeves and frill were added.  The lower cotton abstract print frill was also added; which links to the Piri colours and gives a weight to the dress.

   PERSIAN PIRI available direct from maker: £120.00 - (new purchasing facility coming soon...)

Kokopelli - flute player features in silk painting with feathers, hand and spirals

Motif outlines were made with wax batik technique. Melted wax applied with a tjang gives a very fluid line and must be moved rapidly before wax cools, or causes blobs.  The feathers are outlined in nomal gutta resist for silk.

After applying dye, silk is steamed, and washed to remove any wax or other gutta resist paste used in the outlines.  Embroidery is used to give definition to motifs.

Habotai silk stretched on a frame.  Motifs of feathers, spirals, Kokopelli flute player, hand outlines. Resist outlines stop dye from spreading when applied.

Predominantly Kokopelli as a ‘fertility deity’ is a bearer of seeds and the flute could have been used to help the plants grow with music, or simply announce his coming.  Its quite likely such characters travelled for trade through South America and North America, as is believed from the rock petroglyphs.  Images show either head feathers, or antennae; some with balls on the end, which almost look like a map to the stars; which might indicate planting time, as recognised by star positions.

     Kokopelli (koh-koh-pell-ee) is a deity and symbol of fertility recognized by several Native American groups in the Southwestern part of the country. Like other fertility gods, Kokopelli is known to preside over both agriculture and childbirth….survived from the ancient Anasazi    Indian mythology. Kokopelli is also a prominent character in Hopi legends.

A Native American video explanation of how Kokopelli as a man, not a god, brings all the seeds from the previous world. The ‘flute’ maybe a medicine pipe.  He could be a simple seed seller, or it could even refer to past colonisation of earth.

   KOKOPELLI is available.  £95.00 Direct from maker.  (new purchasing coming soon...)

11 Feb

Medicine Wheel Silk Painting

Amelia Hoskins / Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

MEDICINE WHEEL design on 3 garments 

Silk painted:  Medicine Wheel Sundress and Medicine Wheel Mini-Kimono

Printed and embroidered:  Medicine Wheel print on dress 'Desert Walk' and Dress 'Champagne'

MEDICINE WHEEL SUNDRESS

Physical - Emotional - Mental - Spiritual

The four aspects written in my painting's 4 quarters - Native American teacher explains the Four Worlds and the underlying meaning of '4' as a repetitive sacred number theme. There are also four basic elements of earth, air, fire, water.   The geometric embroidered sigil symbols are from a website; and represent metaphysical states.

Sundress Making

Sundress is built around the central silk panel, on tailor's dummy.  First attach strips to silk painting and band above bust, joined under arms.   Side flounces are a useful idea for fuller hips. Attach to side panels. (See pattern shape here) 

Back strips are created fitted to back, with flare vents below waist for movement and design interest. Back buttons for a tighter waist fit.

Machine embroidery used on the symbols.

SUNDRESS MEDICINE WHEEL available: £90.00 Direct from maker.  (new purchasing coming soon...)

Summer Kimono Jacket in patchwork silks

Medicine Wheel Kimono Making

  • Fabrics came from two dresses with interesting border prints: dark brown viscose with large pale green circles, and pale blue and brown silk print with circular border motifs positioned for sleeve edging.
  • A blue/gold tartan was chosen as a highlight colour, by using blue/gold patch to top section of collar and lower down.
  • Kimono type collar is created by wide double strip sewn to neck and front edgings.  Using a seam join at back neck, the best shape can be created to fit neck well, by shaping at an angle on a model or dummy.  For a fold-over collar, upper part needs to be wider (shape seam wider), or use back section cut on bias (across the grain, for stretch).

Making - Sleeves

  • Sleeves are simply the gaps left at the body fabric rectangle edges, left undone (seen at shoulders on dummy).
  • A four-inch strip of the blue/gold tartan was inserted below armhole space for better shaped fit. Strip needs tapering for about 4-6 inches up to sleeve edge opening.
  • A bright blue turquoise fabric was chosen for inside the sleeves, as decorative contrast and when sleeves are rolled up.
  • Narrow bows were already on the fabric used so was left in situ on the sleeve edge.
  • If sleeves are long, then turn-ups are useful using an inside cotton fabric to hold them in place well.
  • Design washed out paler than planned after steaming too long, so machine stitching is used to highlight outlines.

Kimono happy

Silk kimono sold to Jacqui when my garments were sold in local organic fabrics shop.

Length appears shorter on a taller woman than when fitted on dummy during making.  Photo shows how the loose kimono is suitable over other shirts and T-shirts and so looks good on any size.

The silk painting is on her left side, out of view.

Pocket placed over contrasting brown patched piece is a good distinctive decoration.

(shop owner's photo). 

Medicine Wheel  on linen and cotton dress Desert Walk (Sold)

This version of 'Medicine Wheel' was the result of test sample prints at the Double Elephant Print workshop for Mac design 'silk screen' printing. I used my photographs of other 'Medicine Wheel' designs, amalgamated, but there was only two 'screens' (polyester printing screens) each, so the result only shows two of the colour areas.  However, the abstract quality is interesting.  This was a quick way of getting many designs on white, grey, and beige linen and cotton samples.  This applied panel has two prints one above the other over a beige finely striped cotton, which aided the textural background.  Print ink available was not suitable for silk.

Buyer Story:  The craft fair was a washout on a windy and rainy stormy day.  Joce turned up late, from far out of town, after many crafters had left due to bad weather.  I had stayed until the end and was fortunate Joce liked my unique linen printed dress very much.  Its just right for her; the size, style and colour. She was very pleased with her original find on its first display show.

I have several samples remaining of this batch printed 'Medicine Wheel' design on cream and grey, and another dress 'Desert Flare' (not featured).  Also seen nicely on white linen in 'Opaline Frolic'.

'Making' images to be uploaded here.

'Medicine Wheel' print on Dress CHAMPAGNE (available)

Dress features two 'Medicine Wheel' prints grey-on-grey either side of front with embroidered central symbols.  Existing fitted bodice top was the inspiration, cut from a dress, preserving champagne satin frills.  Black and cream fabrics coordinate with the fine cream and black lines in ridged top.  Black viscose utilises an existing dress frill for interesting positioning.

Background image is from a range of small murals featuring Peruvian plant spirits painted in the tropical biome of Eden Project, Cornwall. Bromeliad Colita de Gavilan (Billbergia sp.) is depicted as the headdress of the spirit.

02 Jan

Summer Blues Skirts

Amelia Hoskins / Skirt / / 0 Comments

Blue Fabric Coordinates - Summer Craft Show Project

Skirts designed as holiday wear; inspired by mixing and matching my 'blues' collection with blue/white and blue/green.

Turquoise Dreams 

Wrap around skirt has good quality vari-toned turquoise viscose curved edge side panels, waistband and sash, with semi transparent printed voiles forming main skirt attached to turquoise silk lining, as hip covering. Long sash belt to wrap around. (slit feed through to be added)

TURQUOISE DREAMS available £70:00 - Direct from maker (new purchasing coming soon...)

Blue and Purple Tiger

Blue, purple and black polyester voile layers over airforce blue satin lining, plus a contrast light blue floral fabric as frill decoration and front edge.  Elasticated waist facilitates wearing style in any position.  See 'Making'.   SIZE: Length 18 inches/46cm. Waist 30 inch/76 cms (max elastic stretch 36 inch/91 cms).

AVAILABLE : £65:00 - Direct from Maker

BONDI BEACH II   -  AVAILABLE: £35:00 - Direct from maker

Stretch swimsuit fabric top print with black tie cord to wrap around through loops.  Cotton abstract ethnic print lower part.  Waist tie will wrap tighter for smaller size, or extend looser as beach wrap for larger size to 34 inch waist, which could also be worn dropped to a 34 inch hip.  To be added to shop.  SIZE: Length 18 inches/46cm.  Waist: 26-28 inch/66-71 cm

Prussian Dolphin  (Sold)

Skirt in blue/white viscose main, with elasticated waste and floral voile patch print lower panel. Patched pocket. Fringe on blue viscose overlap side. Floral voile lower section is cut from blouse bottom.  Summer feel achieved with light voile fabrics lower panel.

BONDI BEACH I (Sold)

Original surf print fabric was one small skirt: cut in two to make two new skirts.  See MAKING for waistband sash slit and sash.

INDIAN BLUES wrap around (SOLD)

Main skirt area repeats use of blue/white abstract thin cotton print.  Additional smaller geometric print hem layers (viscose/polyester).

Waistband, side overlap and sash in Indian navy blue/green cotton, which is not slippery: good for waist and sash as will hold a knot well.

(Commissioned by Jennifer)   See Indian Blues MAKING: waistband with slit for threading long sash through around to back.

MAKING Wrap around skirts

  • A-line shape created by putting darts at top of front and back waist of an A-shaped rectangle (waist to hip).
  • Skirt rectangle can firstly be made with variety of patches. Recommended patch quality: cottons at top with viscose or polyester lower which hangs well.
  • When darts made and pressed, lay skirt pieces flat and cut lower parts following the curve created in top part.
  • Allow extra 12 inch to rectangle, for overlap side.  Due to patch joins, I use a patch length for side overlap.  Choose feature fabric which can also be waistband.
  • See making photos for bound slit which must be in waistband to pull sash tie through, to hold waist in place.
  • A-line shape fabric can be taken from a dress which is too small: add slit at side with added flap length.  Use upper dress part for side flap.
  • A curved front flap edge is optional; on one side or both.  Alternatively to a flap section, rectangle can have piped edging. (not featured here).

SLIDE SHOW - Prussian Dolphin - Blue Tiger - Turquoise Dreams

30 Dec

Jerkin Dresses

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JERKIN DRESSES -  Linen - Wool - Corduroy  - (Sold)

I enjoyed making these jerkins, and they had great appeal, as they are suitable for English weather, warn over T-shirts and leggings Spring and Winter

Using different wools together

RUSTICA - Printed scarf used at front and back. Wool check which continues on angle at front

D'ARTAGNON - back view shows skirt pleat inverted to give shoulder width, subsequently sold at pop up Art shop

Jerkin MULBERRY WALNUT

Modelled by Boo at Exeter Arts Centre Crafts show

A favourite jerkin, utilised plain beige cotton/wool mix with colourful red check patched pocket, side vents, and collar.

Side vents were used because the beige fabric is taken from trousers, using the top part across the shoulders, with leg sections tapering down below hips.

Red check contrast fabric is from a Per Una skirt for side vent flares (seen clearly in this image), collar and pocket. Tabard sleeve edges bound in red check.

Wooden brown buttons add to the rustic feel.

Collar is large when opened and high fitting when closed against wind. Collar alone used vogue pattern; darted for shape. Uses lots of fabric.

02 Dec

Garments Available Tabs

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Dressing Gown, Jacket, Kimono, Skirt / / 0 Comments

HANDMADE ORIGINAL DESIGNS - Leisure, fun and decorative ladies' patchwork. Click Garment NAMES and IMAGE to full garment Post.

Abalone Diamonds Summer smock dress

Smock top summer dress.  Patchwork Diamonds in white, pale blue-green fine fabrics, (like abalone shell) and black/white.

Lace yoke front and back with gathers from yoke above bust. Multi bust size 34 to 42 inches due to gathers above bust.  Length: 31 inches

Available to buy in my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose 

Aldebaran Kimono sleeved short dress

Uniquely shaped, with deep kimono styled sleeves and collar front extended to hem.

Multi prints in Red-Pink-Black-Cream patchworks.

Knee length with lace-up adjustable front to adapt bust size.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose

Bluebird Kimono

A rhapsody of blue patchwork in silk and viscose.

Loose and relaxing in dreamy colours.

Comfortable leisure wear home or events.

Panels of abstract bird silk paintings.

Multi-size.  Fully lined.  £175.00

Available in my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Coffee Latte

Summer dress in coffee/cream/black patchwork: stretch cotton bandeau top which performs dually as a dress bust hold up or cummerbund if worn as a skirt.  Similar to dress Cappuccino.

White 5 inch fringe hem.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Opaline Rose Dress

Charming summer dress in layers

Silver stretch bust top

Devore roses on white

Hand painted silk panel grey dyed

£150.00 Available to buy on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose

Opaline Frolic

Charming summer dress in ice grey blues

Silver stretch bust

Sash in casing under bust for adjusting

Linen lower, with hand printed design at front

£95.00 (sale price)

Available in my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Butterflies and Pansies

Frivolous feminine tea party dress in pinks and maroon silk, with silk sleeves, pink-mauve shot taffeta and cotton with pansy print.

Silk painted front panel of nigella seed pod, butterflies and pansies on Ahimsa silk

AVAILABLE To BUY at my  Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Purple Shimmers Kimono Dress

Kimono styled below knee dress or evening dress, (same style cut as dress Aldebaran) in panels of purples, navy and floral print patchworks.  Close fitted back top, with skirt section gathered all around, slightly below bust into a high waist.

Adjustable front lacing.  Front lower skirt stitched closed but can be reopened to customer's preference for open lower dress below lace-up.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Kokopelli smock dress

Shirt sleeved button fronted smock top dress in grey and lilac, with lower section gathered at bust line.

Lilac/white long striped sleeves have pre-existing turn up tab to elbow.  Muted grey/white viscose rose print front and back.

Front has large silk painting one side, featuring Kokopelli design from rock carvings.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose 

Raspberry Rose Celtic Kimono Dress

Sumptuous and totally unique kimono dress.

Mixed fabrics: including magenta pink-red velvet devore at back and a variety of silk dyed pieces at front, partially embroidered.

Silk Experiments with eco dyeing  - Ahimsa and Habotai silks.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to add]

Cappuccino patchwork sun dress

Summer dress in coffee/cream/black cotton patchwork: stretch cotton jersey bandeau top transforms into a skirt.

Coffee/gold/text coloured feature front patch piece print 'Love Never Dies'.

Lined in nylon jersey with cream print hem, dress with black lace hem.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Tasmanian Blues

Robe or dress in patchwork blues, cotton and viscose; interesting prints of leopard, calligraphy, floral: below knee.

Collar is silk painted, in hand dyed gold habotai silk, from maker's eucalyptus bark dye session.

Unique applique designs of seed motifs; also in natural dyed silks and lace.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY SHOP Celtic Rose

Tropical Parrots shirt dress

Lose fit large shirt dress in olive green/black/bright pink with parrots print back, and beige green orange passion flowers front printed panel.

Lined in black viscose shirt with orange flower print: allows dress to be worn in reverse.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Persian Piri Dress

Dress converted from mustard yellow cotton/viscose tunic top, with pink/green abstract print lower frill.  Lace lower frill, sleeves and collar.  Extra long featured two toned pink sash added.

Maker's appliqued silk painted panel of 'Piri' figure from Persian illustrations.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose  

Nigella Blues

Shortie button up V necked dress in navy and light blue patchwork prints with short navy lace sleeves.

Additional feature of appliqued seed designs in naturally dyed silk and lace.

Available to BUY in Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose

Hopi Birds Red linen long dress

Scarlet linen, with linen and viscose back panels using Vogue pattern.

Ornate front polyester print.

Hand painted silk lower front tie-back panels of 'Hopi Birds' black/white.

Name derived from abstract bird designs on Hopi pottery.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to be added]

Hopi Birds Grey pinafore dress

Pinafore dress with full silk painted bib front, and panels of thick grey cotton with silk piped

edgings.  Silk painted front panel of 'Hopi Birds', from Hopi potter designs.

Slim fit hips 34-35: model Marian

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [ to be added]

 

Cherry Fluzzies

Two patchwork panelled dresses with bright cerise knitted buttoned tops.

Two variations:  An A-line knee length; and a flared wide skirt with frilled hem on knee

Both have same knitted top.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose (to be added)
11 Nov

Silk dyed with Comfrey leaves

Amelia Hoskins / Plant dye processes / / 0 Comments

Comfrey leaves give a cream or light beige colour, good for painting on.  Adding iron, gives a dulled greyed mushroom cream.  Comfrey leaves get mushy after boiling.

Alum is a standard means of pre mordanting fabric, to help dye absorption.  Soaking in soya is another.  Alum dissolves in water, before silk is added and soaked for an hour or overnight before dying.

I used this dye session to experiment with shibori: stitching through layers with embroidery skeins, wrapping thread tightly at intersections.  It worked but the result was too pale to notice any difference where the dye resisted.  Iron was added to the dye bath after first pigment had taken up.

Silk looks dark when wet, after iron water added to dye bath, but dried many shades lighter.  Good as a pale mushroom colour.  Shibori stitching was diagonally across weft and warp.  Pale dyes dont give the contrast seen on darker dyes.  I used only cotton thread, which did not resist much dye stuff.  Soya wax could have been brushed on the diagonal lines, to give a slight resist.  Thicker waxed thread ought be tried.

Plain comfrey dyed portion of sample

Darker comfrey + iron dyed section sample

Adding iron to comfrey dye bath turns grey green, and leaving silk submerged longer, results in a very good khaki or green-gold colour.

Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.