After joining patchworks in strips, its good to lay them out to assess size needed for skirt.
Patches cut and arranging
After cutting out all the patches available from garments, into piles; try out arrangements of contrasting tones evenly distributed. Six varieties used here.
Patches joined by zig zag machining over top
After deciding patches distribution, pin overlapping flat, (in rows) remembering their placements, then zigzag machine down. It can help to do a straight stitch first, or pre-tack. Repeat, joining long rows together.
Backing black lace patches
Make backing for black lace with cream fabric. (Backing colours need to coordinate with overfall design)
Cut patches lined black lace
Cut two pieces the same (black lace and lining); single stitch down edges before joining to other patches.
Small black stitches are visible from the stretch cross-backstitch worked on the inside. Zigzag stitches on patchwork joining visible.
Pinning black lace frill to hem
Attaching lace hem to skirt
Black lace was used, joining strips. Zigzag hem the lacy strip lengths, then pin and zigzag to dress hem.
Attaching skirt to top - pinning
Pin skirt section roughly to edge of stretch bandeau top.
Pinning hemmed bandeau to patchwork outside view
First press over quarter inch hem to stretch top bandeau piece. Pin stretch edge ready to stretch stitch on the inside. Outside of bandeau shows how pinning from other side shows. The other side so far unattached is shown with pressed hem.
Pinning patchwork to bandeau inside view
Pin spaced along top and bottom. (Stretch bandeau has been pressed hemmed, as has patchwork skirt piece) Pin front - back - sides first: then place pins in between, evening out the fabric fullness.
Patchwork attached to bandeau - stretch back stitch
Stitch was experimental: two rows. Backstitch which holds folds but gives stretch facility. See lining attachment for close more accurate stitching details.
Attaching lining - cross-backstitch 1
Lining fabric is cut on the bias, so it stretches more, as it wasn't quite wide as the patchwork skirt piece; so will stretch with the gathers of the patchwork skirt section.
Attaching lining - cross backstitch 2
Attaching lining - cross backstitch 3
Cutting lining hem after attaching inside
On a dummy, (or person) allow lining to fall and cut in line with outer skirt. Cut one inch longer if hemming needed. I decided to add another fabric hem to this one.
Extra print hem machined to lining
Adding a further hem to lining in contrasting print to the black lace, creates another contrast detail interest. Press hem print 1cm forward and lining hem backwards; before machining in two places.
Black lace frill machined to dress hem
When dress top hangs over lining, the added light print shows, which gives added contrast behind the black lace.
Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.
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