Tag: unique

02 Jul

Abalone Diamonds Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

Summer smock styled dress with lace neck feature and diamond patchworks in abalone themed colours of fine fabrics.

Summer dress or over-top is light and cool,  Lace neckline yoke feature with gatherings of lightweight floaty patchworks under yoke.  Back neck button but not needed as dress fits over head.  Model is about size 10 to 12 (UK).

Dress on dummy shows additional yoke decoration and scalloped flap inserted between yoke and dress patches

 

Five different patch pieces used when joining the diamonds together in diagonal rows, stitching on the 'straight' (not stretchy) edge of a diamond.  Using a strong paper template, place one edge on the 'straight grain' to draw around and cut out. Stitch the 'straight grain' sides together when joining a strip diagonally.

 

Yoke lace is taken from a blouse, and lined with a fabric which has transparent blue roses (seen in the patches); which holds the entire yoke firm.  Same lining fabric is neck edging turnover.  Bottom of yoke open to insert patchwork portion; gathered at bust curve-over area.  This works well - see model.

Matt blue from blouse is used for decorative 'cover' over front yoke seaming, and as 'flab edging' over bust line. (not shown this photo).

This unique dress Abalone Diamonds: max bust.   back neck to hem.   hem circumference

£140.00.   Shop to be integrated 2024:

02 Dec

Garments Available

HANDMADE ORIGINAL CLOTHES - A variety of leisure, fun and decorative ladies' patchwork.

Aldebaran

Uniquely shaped, with deep kimono styled sleeves and collar extended to hem.

Red-Pink-Black-Cream patchworks.  Knee length with lace-up adjustable front to adapt bust size.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop

Purple Shimmers

Kimono styled below knee dress, (same style cut as dress Aldebaran) in panels of purples, navy and floral prints.  Close fitted back top, with skirt section gathered slightly below bust into high waist.

Unique adjustable front lacing.  Front lower skirt stitched closed but can be reopened to customer's preference for open lower dress below lace-up.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop

Tasmanian Blues

Robe dress in blue cotton and viscose; below knee, with unique seed pod applique decoration.

Collar is silk painted, on hand dyed gold collar, from maker's eucalyptus bark dye session.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop

Tropical Parrots

Lose fit large shirt dress in olive green/black/bright pink with parrots print back, and beige green orange passion flowers front printed panel. 

Lined in black viscose shirt with orange flower print: allows dress to be worn in reverse.

SHAMANIC NIGHTS FOLKSY Shop [ to be added]

Nigella Blues

Short sleeved large smock top in same fabrics as Tasmanian Blues robe-dress.

Front buttoned, floral print lined.

Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop [ to be added]

Cappuccino

Two dresses in coffee/cream/black patchwork: multi styled with stretch cotton bandeau top which performs dually as a dress bust hold up, or cummerbund if worn as a skirt.

Two variations: Black lace hem, lined in nylon knit with coffee coloured feature patchwork print 'Love Never Dies'.

White fringed hem version, unlined, no feature coffee patchwork; just cream and black.

Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop [ to be added]

Cherry Fluzzies

Two patchwork panelled dresses with bright cerise knitted buttoned tops.

Two variations:  An A-line knee length; and a flared wide skirt with frilled hem on knee

Both have same knitted top. 

Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop (to be added)

Hopi Birds  Dress

Adaptation of scarlet red linen skirt, with linen and viscose back panels using Vogue pattern.

Ornate front polyester print patterned applique.  Maker's hand silk painted lower tie-back panels of 'Hopi Birds' on black, and white.

Name derived from abstract bird designs on Hopi pottery.

Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop [to be added]

Hopi Birds Grey  - Post

Pinafore dress with full silk painted bib front, and panels of thick grey cotton with silk piped

edgings.  Silk painted front panel of 'Hopi Birds', from Hopi potter designs.

Slim fit hips 34-35: model Marian

Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop [ to be added]

 

Butterflies and Pansies

Frivolous tea party dress in pink and maroon silk, with silk (bundle dyed) sleeves, pink-mauve shot taffeta and cotton with pansy print.

Silk painted front panel of nigella seed pod with butterflies and banana leaves.

SHAMANIC NIGHTS FOLKSY Shop [ to be added]

Kokopelli

Shirt sleeved button fronted smock top dress in grey and lilac, with lower section gathered at bust line.

Lilac/white long striped sleeves have pre-existing turn up tab to elbow.  Muted grey/white viscose rose print front and back. 

Front has large silk painting one side, featuring Kokopelli design from rock carvings.

Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop [ to be added]

Persian Piri Dress

Dress converted from mustard yellow cotton/viscose tunic top, with pink/green abstract print lower frill.  Lace lower frill, sleeves and collar.  Extra long featured two toned pink sash.

Maker's appliqued silk painted panel of 'Piri' figure from Persian illustrations.

SHAMANIC NIGHTS FOLKSY Shop [ to be added]

22 Aug

Clothes Treasure Paradigm

A mixing of fabrics to create a NEW LOOK.

'Guinevere' dress modelled at Cockington Court Crafts show.  [sold].  The name is suggested by the medieval style influence of the sleeves.

Rachel really liked this dress and was a perfect model for me as she was so happy trying it on.  'Guinevere' is a good example of a new way of designing clothes: a dress with contrasting fabric types, all held together by the coordinating of colours.  A 'treasure paradigm'.  

Lace knit - viscose - acrylic wool knit - polyester - wool-cotton.

 

I started with the navy lace as top piece, cutting the V shape, then adding the fabric frills to lower waist-hip position.

The khaki brown fabric frill and narrow beige frill echo the colours in the lower skirt pieces.  Polyester beige and khaki had identical prints, very subtle.

Skirt tartan was soft fine wool texture.  Beige 'V' inset to centre back and centre front to give more flare, as the original material was a small size.

Navy lace was cut from the same fabric as the top, to give a lace hem.

 

Its a bit wild in formulation, being an unusual mix of fabric types, but later sold in a shop.

 

 

The peplum is longer at the back, to give an elegance over the rear and to utilise the pleats which existed in the skirt it was taken from.

The skirt pieces are sewn up under the first beige peplum.

However skirt pieces became available, after cutting away from their original garment, I allow them to hang as they are, 'handkerchief style'.  When insets are needed, to create flare, I add a coordinating hem, in this case lace as the top; which hols the whole structure together.

I prefer craft show sales where I meet the buyer; when it creates a relationship between the maker's effort and the end user.  Its always nice to see the buyer in the garment.

23 May

Exhibition Totnes Costume Museum

Shamanic Nights exhibition at the Totnes Costume Museum

Curated theme - 'Innovation and Fashion' - 23rd May‭-‭ 14th June‭ ‬2011

Exhibition Curator Hilary Burns I remembered from 1970s Textiles Degree course. She studied weave; myself silk screen printing. Now a basket weaver, she had also moved to Devon.  It was uncanny how she spotted my work at a craft fair and chose for the exhibition.

Totnes Costume Museum Robe Oriental Cruise and Robe Mandarin

LINEN CRUISE 1.

Robe in white linen and viscose prints shows black underside lapel of white linen collar and front edging (cut two collars contrasting) and two patch pockets.  Front has silk painted panels.  Robe is loose T-shaped structure in patches with no traditional tailored 'armhole'.  A diamond gusset is inserted under arm, under the 'T' join. Patchworks are large and long as originally intended for a bed quilt.

'Oriental Cruise' 

Exhibition featured first Robes made: using white, cream and ecru linens with viscose and cotton printed patchwork rectangles.

Upper left sleeve shows silk painted panel. Design was copied from a small scale print on robe, seen below arm, but with enlarged scale, and keeping same colours.

Robe sold.  A very pleasant scheme which may get revisited.

'Mandarin'  (sold)

Modelled by fashion student, at Cockington Court Crafts Fair

Short cotton Kimono Dress (furnishing weight):  deep no-fit sleeves and stand up 'mandarin' Chinese styled collar, sleeve turn-ups and bound edged side pocket.

Patchwork contrasts of white/black toile design and orange poppies/olive leaves.  Black and white striped lining.  Unusual colour contrasts for me, but used up similar heavyweight cottons

See more early original robes at Robes Summer Coats Originals

'Mandarin' - Making

Named for a Mandarin-style collar made with a strip on a curve (cut x 2 on bias): Piped edge in black; also on pockets.  Patchworks of equal 8 inch x 4 inch.  For attractive 'turn-ups', use contrasting fabric.  Sleeves have faux turn-ups by adding black lace layer below last black patch layer, which turns back to be stitched also 2 inches up inside lining, to reveal black/white striped cotton-satin lining.  The seam formed when stitching to lining,  gives a thicker strong line, which will enable a turn-up to sit at the fold-up nicely.

Dress hem is same black lace as end of sleeves. Adding a bottom hem layer 'frames' the garment together; cut double to stitch down inside, encasing the edges of the upper patchwork.   Dress uses same striped fabric for front facing lining for interest.

 

'Bluebird'  (sold)

Dress was also chosen for the Totnes Museum Exhibition.

Features three fabrics: olive silk, royal blue linen, with 'bluebird' printed cotton.

Independent fabric colours were a perfect match for each other, the green silk blending well next to the printed cotton.

Modelled by keen browser in rainy Exeter crafts market.

 

Patchwork robes can be bespoke made to your measurements with your own fabrics. Send me details of your measurements to adjust dummy. If you have an idea of colours, I can show you photos of coordinates in my collection.  Silk painting additional quote on enquiry.

Making fee for standard kimono styled robe with collar extended down front facing.  Style tweaks can be arranged.

Long large patches:   Short to knee - £160,  Ankle length - £200.00

Small patches 8 inch x 4inch:   Short to knee £220,  Ankle length £260.00

Extra materials cost would be lining, as I do not stock new, although I have some thin white cotton in stock.  Robes need lining.  Summer dresses need not, as patches are over laid zig-zagged.
22 May

Design Philosophy

Harmonisation with Discarded Fabrics

Design inspiration comes from seeing themes evolve between disparate fabric prints and colours, rescued from charity/thrift shops, to be recreated into a new unique garment artwork.

As an artist and textile designer, I have a keen eye for the illustration and patterns in textile prints. I source those which appeal to me, variously of classical floral illustrative, geometric, and astral.  A combination of all these together with coordinating plain colours makes a good patchwork.

Not all prints are of personal favourite by themselves, but depending on their colours, I will see a way they would contrast or blend within a theme.  A dress full of rose bouquets can be cut up to introduce patch areas highlighting the best flowers.  A smaller patchwork piece/area of fabric can become more special than the full repeated print area.

Cotton lace tops (often cotton/acrylic mix) are another good find, as they can be layered over other colours.  Most synthetic lace fabrics also surprisingly take up plant dye to some extent, which removes any stark whiteness, too brilliant for patches amongst colours.

I usually choose a starting point of a print, or a part of a garment. then make a pile with other colours and prints (5 is usually sufficient to start with).  As you do this, one choice may be removed and replaced with another, as the combined effect literally 'shouts' too dark, too light, etc., depending on the theme in mind. The most subtle patchwork is when the overall effect is of fabrics of a similar tone; i.e. nothing too light, nor too dark, on its own.  I often do include black with a strong colour collection, due to its fashion favouritism, but am more careful with lighter tones and darks mixed, when making patch-worked garments using panels larger than traditional patchwork.

Silk Painting Inspirations

Some garments have my hand painted silk panels.  The print designs in each fabric collection may suggest a new design to be developed further, using their elements to create a silk painted panel, or I may simply copy some elements combined with other images of my own.  Colour mixing dyes to match the existing prints is an essential skill.  My silks, Habotai or Ahimsa, are base dyed with natural plants, in pastels and mostly golds.  In 2024 I'm experimenting with clamp dyeing backgrounds and making dye paints from plants and roots to use instead of commercial chemical dyes.

 

Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.