Tag: dress

07 Apr

Raspberry Rose Celtic Kimono Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Eco Prints, Kimono, Robe / / 0 Comments

Sumptuous and totally unique kimono dress.  Mixed fabrics: including magenta pink-red velvet devore at back and a variety of silk dyed pieces at front.  Experiments with eco dyeing using plants to dye Ahimsa and Habotai silks.

 

LEFT SIDE SILK LOWER

 

Lower dress side: Habotai silk dyed in golds and purples; created by bundle dyeing [link] - Many layers of over dyeing. Definition added with logwood, lemon juice and woad.  With bundle dyed silks, after steaming, outlines can be added to create 'design' shapes, like flowers.  Useful when the dyed effects merge together with no design definition.

This has come out quite well; using just one piece, cut diagonally to add to each side of garment.

Additional blackberry dyed Ahimsa silk is used bottom front next to it.

LEFT SIDE SILK UPPER

Sleeve section in Ahimsa silk, bundle dyed with various flowers and leaves, and blackberries [background eco print session see Session 4 'To get some colour'.  A blotchy result led to being over-embroidered.

Embroidered Celtic Triskele design of 'rounds' added to silk with overplay of abstracted chain stitch embroidered 'roses'.  Added embroidered 'leaves' extend from circles down sleeve.

Black/pink cotton jersey is seen as 'cuff' below sleeve and is partial lining inside sleeves.  Together with the jersey and the Ahimsa silk, the main 'body' is very warm.

Celtic Raspberry Rose Kimono right side and back

SILK SLEEVES

View shows differences between front and back kimono dress.

Sleeves have a join following down from shoulder.  Different silk bundle dyed outcomes front and back sleeve sides.  Front Ahimsa silk embroidered; back Habotai silk eco steamed tones.

Black and pink patched fabrics seen through crimson red lace.

Black and magenta pink cotton jersey sleeve cuff is an extension of the inner sleeve lining, echoing the pinks used on dress back.  Its always a matter of what fabrics I have in stock to coordinate with.

Model 'Rose' is quite tall. shorter people would find the dress sits on or just above knee.

 

Vivid Magenta velvet devore and crimson cotton lace add a sumptuous tone to the lighter mottled front silks

LINING

Garment is built around an existing black/pink roses polyester printed lining which provides the collar and front buttoning section; i.e. the original front welt is used for front welt on kimono dress, and one side of the sash belt, which threads around waist and having back part elasticated.  New buttons and bound button holes added.  Pink silks either side of front are blackberry dyed.

Embroidery designs over eco dyeing

Original source for Celtic Triskele design is formalised plant forms within a sphere.  Not being geometrically exact, the spheres have more loose design, to simplify embroidery areas, and can be added to according to shape within garment.  Shapes within Triskeles have been modified with lemon juice to discharge some of the left over dye colour, and to create definition in the design.

Embroidery detailed around discharged Triskele designs, over purple/pink areas

Chain stitch follows the outlines of the discharged Triskeles.  Freestyle 'roses' are created within the Triskele design.

Celtic Triskele shapes painted on with lemon juice to discharge blackberry eco steamed Ahimsa silk

This is an idea to design specific coloured areas in eco prints, to be afterwards embroidered with details.

13 Jan

Nigella Blues Smock

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

NIGELLA BLUES Smock Top Dress

Enough patches prepared from 'Tasmanian Blues', for a smaller garment.  Size and shape was dictated by the blouse used as an underlining, the colours of which were a perfect match, being cream brown and pale blue.  Short sleeves made in dark blue lace.  Coconut buttons with bound buttonholes [how to below].  Applique patches giant seed designs again created with eucalyptus dyed lace and bundle dyed silk.  Back hem is drooped lower.

AVAILABLE :  £85.00 - Direct from maker

Nigella Blues button up short sleeved smock dress - £90.00. [Shop coming SOON! and FOLKSY to add]

Nigella Blues Smock – Bound buttonhole sewing – Click to enlarge

Nigella Blues Smock – Applique making – Click to enlarge

Nigella Blues Smock – Making – Click to enlarge

03 Oct

Tasmanian Blues Robe Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

FEATURES:  Collar is of hand dyed silk, from natural Tasmanian eucalyptus tree bark dye  then painted over.  Silk sample designs see here. [add link]

APPLIQUE DECORATION:  Nigella Seed pod designs from my drawings of dried seed pods in my vegetable garden:  see seed photos on photography site resonant-visions Beige lace has a similarity to the thin casings of the pods as they break down.

BLUE Patchworks

Abstract with text print blue/white cotton-viscose.

Feather print navy-white cotton.

Navy blue lace lined on gold.

Stylised flowers blue-gold-navy cotton print.

Gold embroidered cotton.

PLUS :  Gold plant dyed silk. Leopard print blue-black-grey. Chinese Bird of Paradise with gold texture cotton.

Applique - Seed Pods of Nigella 'Love in a Mist'

Robe Dress has applique lace pod dyed in eucalyptus dye bath after the collar piece. Colour took well, which is a guide to fabric content being cotton or silk. Dark centres to seed pod designs are cut from eucalyptus dyed silk (iron modified).  Light centre to pod is from bundle steam died silk with seeds and petals.  Nigella blues has variable on same pod idea.  A motif is a good means to join over a seam (smock left top). Also provides contrast to break up a solid dark or light area.

Tasmanian Blues MAKING PROCEDURE

02 Jul

Abalone Diamonds Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

Summer smock styled dress with lace neck feature and diamond patchworks in abalone themed colours of fine fabrics.

Summer dress or over-top is light and cool,  Lace neckline yoke feature with gatherings of lightweight floaty patchworks under yoke.  Back neck button but not needed as dress fits over head.  Model is about size 10 to 12 (UK).

Dress on dummy shows additional yoke decoration and scalloped flap inserted between yoke and dress patches

 

Five different patch pieces used when joining the diamonds together in diagonal rows, stitching on the 'straight' (not stretchy) edge of a diamond.  Using a strong paper template, place Garment becomes 'cross-grain' with a good hang and flare.

 

Yoke lace is taken from a blouse, and lined with a fabric which has transparent blue roses (seen in the patches); which holds the entire yoke firm.  Same lining fabric is neck edging turnover.  Bottom of yoke open to insert patchwork portion; gathered at bust curve-over area.  This works well - see model.

Matt blue from blouse is used for decorative 'cover' over front yoke seaming, and as 'flab edging' over bust line. (not shown this photo).

Unique dress Abalone Diamonds  Size 36-42 inch bust.  Loose fit enables bust fit.  Shoulder to front hem 30.5 inches.    Hem circumference 80 inches

£140.00.   Shop to be integrated 2024:

21 Mar

Rose Antique and Burgundy Kimono

Amelia Hoskins / Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

Silk and Satin Kimono Dress ' ROSE ANTIQUE'

Patchwork features hand painted habotai silk top and lower ahimsa silk painted patchwork

 

Patchworks created over burgundy polyester satine shirt/nightshirt which forms lining.  Existing collar and button welt are utilised on the outside, while patchworks are created exactly to fit over shirt shape.  The burgundy satine has a pink rose print which top fabrics coordinate with.  Sleeves have been extended some inches, with darker purple Ahimsa silk borders left over from a previously logwood-dyed silk.  Two different silk painting pieces were created to coordinate with all chosen fabrics.   Loose size fits up to 42" bust.  Model is average size.

Silk Painting (top):  Comfrey dyed Habotai silk with hand painted Roses over pale soya wax resist, Celtic Triskels and red motifs from one of the prints.  The cream silk looks antique in tone when laid over the darker burgundy.

Silk Painting (hem):  Hawthorn dyed Ahimsa silk with bundle dyed texture of Sycamore leaves, then hand painted over with leaf outlines and roses, with painted motifs copied from a coordinate.   Silk painting method below...

 

LEFT Centre:  Triskeles and Roses on Habotai silk. 

 RIGHT Left: Sycamore leaves and Roses on Ahimsa silk.

COLLAR:  Utilised from lining shirt. The outside of the shirt becomes the inside lining of Kimono.  BACK:  Burgundy colour scheme echoed in intricate centre print on voile.

Side Views

Sleeves are extended from underlying burgundy shirt to create 'kimono' style.  Dark purple remnant of a silk painting forms wide extended border.  Lined with colour coordinating viscose in lilac cloud print.  The original outline of the shirt tail slits is followed.

 

ROSE ANTIQUE BURGUNDY KIMONO available £160.00 - Direct from maker.  (new purchasing coming soon...)

FRONT BUTTONING - Upper - Middle - Lower    BUTTONS - Heart shaped painted wood.

SLEEVES  -  Lining is viscose which extends to outer sleeve to form a border with dark purple, logwood-dyed, Ahimsa painted silk patchwork.

HEM BOTTOM LAYER - Original curved slit outlines followed of underlying burgundy shirt (as lining)

Techniques used in Silk Painting preparations

SOYA WAX RESIST:  My own photos were used, all enlarged to similar size, to make paper stencil cut-outs, for comfrey-soy-waxed-roses.  Rose petal areas were roughly painted in hot soya wax.  When wax was well set, the silk was placed in a cold comfrey dye bath, which showed cracking of wax after immersion, so I squeezed the roses slightly around a centre point, which produced the cracks as lines from the centre of pale rose shapes.

STEAM PRINTED PETALS and seeds are imprinted by bundle-steam method. Result is a few colour imprints of colour in areas between the roses.  Rose petals shapes were lost by the cracking effect, so they were painted finally with a more stylized curly petals.  Triangle was cut out where something was stained.  This was utilised as neck area on kimono construction.  CONCLUSION:  This technique would be good on darker backgrounds, to be tried!

Sycamore Roses Steam Printed Leaves and Painted Roses on Ahimsa Silk

Sycamore leaf steamed bundle print produced a brown texture, interesting by itself; however for this garment, I added more over painting to match with patchwork fabric designs.  The red  outlines weren't needed; a blurred background to bring out the leaf areas would have sufficed.

30 Dec

Jerkin Dresses

Amelia Hoskins / Coat Dress / / 0 Comments

JERKIN DRESSES -  Linen - Wool - Corduroy  - (Sold)

I enjoyed making these jerkins, and they had great appeal, as they are suitable for English weather, warn over T-shirts and leggings Spring and Winter

Using different wools together

RUSTICA - Printed scarf used at front and back. Wool check which continues on angle at front

D'ARTAGNON - back view shows skirt pleat inverted to give shoulder width, subsequently sold at pop up Art shop

Jerkin MULBERRY WALNUT

Modelled by Boo at Exeter Arts Centre Crafts show

A favourite jerkin, utilised plain beige cotton/wool mix with colourful red check patched pocket, side vents, and collar.

Side vents were used because the beige fabric is taken from trousers, using the top part across the shoulders, with leg sections tapering down below hips.

Red check contrast fabric is from a Per Una skirt for side vent flares (seen clearly in this image), collar and pocket. Tabard sleeve edges bound in red check.

Wooden brown buttons add to the rustic feel.

Collar is large when opened and high fitting when closed against wind. Collar alone used vogue pattern; darted for shape. Uses lots of fabric.

02 Dec

Garments Available

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Dressing Gown, Jacket, Skirt / / 0 Comments

HANDMADE ORIGINAL DESIGNS - A variety of leisure, fun and decorative ladies' patchwork. Garment NAMES and IMAGE lead to Making Post. Shop coming SOON! And some on FOLKSY 'Celtic Rose'.

Purple Shimmers Kimono Dress

Kimono styled below knee dress or evening dress, (same style cut as dress Aldebaran) in panels of purples, navy and floral print patchworks.  Close fitted back top, with skirt section gathered all around, slightly below bust into a high waist.

Adjustable front lacing.  Front lower skirt stitched closed but can be reopened to customer's preference for open lower dress below lace-up.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Raspberry Rose Celtic Kimono Dress

Sumptuous and totally unique kimono dress.

Mixed fabrics: including magenta pink-red velvet devore at back and a variety of silk dyed pieces at front, partially embroidered.

Silk Experiments with eco dyeing  - Ahimsa and Habotai silks.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to add]

Aldebaran Kimono sleeved short dress

Uniquely shaped, with deep kimono styled sleeves and collar front extended to hem.

Multi prints in Red-Pink-Black-Cream patchworks.

Knee length with lace-up adjustable front to adapt bust size.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose

Abalone Diamonds Summer smock dress

Smock top summer dress.  Patchwork Diamonds in white, pale blue-green fine fabrics, (like abalone shell) and black/white.

Lace yoke front and back with gathers from yoke above bust. Multi bust size 34 to 42 inches due to gathers above bust.  Length: 31 inches

Available to buy in my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose 

Coffee Latte

Summer dress in coffee/cream/black patchwork: stretch cotton bandeau top which performs dually as a dress bust hold up or cummerbund if worn as a skirt.  Similar to dress Cappuccino.

White 5 inch fringe hem.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Butterflies and Pansies

Frivolous feminine tea party dress in pinks and maroon silk, with silk sleeves, pink-mauve shot taffeta and cotton with pansy print.

Silk painted front panel of nigella seed pod, butterflies and pansies on Ahimsa silk

AVAILABLE To BUY at my  Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Bluebird Kimono

Fun and comfortable leisure wear; blue patchwork house dress/kimono or evening coat

Multi-size.  Fully lined.

Panels of abstract bird silk paintings.

Available in my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to add]

Cappuccino patchwork sun dress

Summer dress in coffee/cream/black cotton patchwork: stretch cotton jersey bandeau top transforms into a skirt.

Coffee/gold/text coloured feature front patch piece print 'Love Never Dies'.

Lined in nylon jersey with cream print hem, dress with black lace hem.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Tropical Parrots shirt dress

Lose fit large shirt dress in olive green/black/bright pink with parrots print back, and beige green orange passion flowers front printed panel.

Lined in black viscose shirt with orange flower print: allows dress to be worn in reverse.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Tasmanian Blues

Robe or dress in patchwork blues, cotton and viscose; interesting prints of leopard, calligraphy, floral: below knee.

Collar is silk painted, in hand dyed gold habotai silk, from maker's eucalyptus bark dye session.

Unique applique designs of seed motifs; also in natural dyed silks and lace.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY SHOP Celtic Rose

Kokopelli smock dress

Shirt sleeved button fronted smock top dress in grey and lilac, with lower section gathered at bust line.

Lilac/white long striped sleeves have pre-existing turn up tab to elbow.  Muted grey/white viscose rose print front and back.

Front has large silk painting one side, featuring Kokopelli design from rock carvings.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose 

Persian Piri Dress

Dress converted from mustard yellow cotton/viscose tunic top, with pink/green abstract print lower frill.  Lace lower frill, sleeves and collar.  Extra long featured two toned pink sash added.

Maker's appliqued silk painted panel of 'Piri' figure from Persian illustrations.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose  

Nigella Blues

Shortie button up V necked dress in navy and light blue patchwork prints with short navy lace sleeves.

Additional feature of appliqued seed designs in naturally dyed silk and lace.

Available to BUY in Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose

Hopi Birds Red linen long dress

Scarlet linen, with linen and viscose back panels using Vogue pattern.

Ornate front polyester print.  Hand painted silk lower front tie-back panels of 'Hopi Birds' black/white.

Name derived from abstract bird designs on Hopi pottery.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to be added]

Hopi Birds Grey pinafore dress

Pinafore dress with full silk painted bib front, and panels of thick grey cotton with silk piped

edgings.  Silk painted front panel of 'Hopi Birds', from Hopi potter designs.

Slim fit hips 34-35: model Marian

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [ to be added]

 

Cherry Fluzzies

Two patchwork panelled dresses with bright cerise knitted buttoned tops.

Two variations:  An A-line knee length; and a flared wide skirt with frilled hem on knee

Both have same knitted top.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose (to be added)
Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.