Category: Dress

07 Apr

Raspberry Rose Celtic Kimono Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Eco Prints, Kimono, Robe / / 0 Comments

Sumptuous and totally unique kimono dress.  Mixed fabrics: including magenta pink-red velvet devore at back and a variety of silk dyed pieces at front.  Experiments with eco dyeing using plants to dye Ahimsa and Habotai silks.

 

LEFT SIDE SILK LOWER

 

Lower dress side: Habotai silk dyed in golds and purples; created by bundle dyeing [link] - Many layers of over dyeing. Definition added with logwood, lemon juice and woad.  With bundle dyed silks, after steaming, outlines can be added to create 'design' shapes, like flowers.  Useful when the dyed effects merge together with no design definition.

This has come out quite well; using just one piece, cut diagonally to add to each side of garment.

Additional blackberry dyed Ahimsa silk is used bottom front next to it.

LEFT SIDE SILK UPPER

Sleeve section in Ahimsa silk, bundle dyed with various flowers and leaves, and blackberries [background eco print session see Session 4 'To get some colour'.  A blotchy result led to being over-embroidered.

Embroidered Celtic Triskele design of 'rounds' added to silk with overplay of abstracted chain stitch embroidered 'roses'.  Added embroidered 'leaves' extend from circles down sleeve.

Black/pink cotton jersey is seen as 'cuff' below sleeve and is partial lining inside sleeves.  Together with the jersey and the Ahimsa silk, the main 'body' is very warm.

Celtic Raspberry Rose Kimono right side and back

SILK SLEEVES

View shows differences between front and back kimono dress.

Sleeves have a join following down from shoulder.  Different silk bundle dyed outcomes front and back sleeve sides.  Front Ahimsa silk embroidered; back Habotai silk eco steamed tones.

Black and pink patched fabrics seen through crimson red lace.

Black and magenta pink cotton jersey sleeve cuff is an extension of the inner sleeve lining, echoing the pinks used on dress back.  Its always a matter of what fabrics I have in stock to coordinate with.

Model 'Rose' is quite tall. shorter people would find the dress sits on or just above knee.

 

Vivid Magenta velvet devore and crimson cotton lace add a sumptuous tone to the lighter mottled front silks

LINING

Garment is built around an existing black/pink roses polyester printed lining which provides the collar and front buttoning section; i.e. the original front welt is used for front welt on kimono dress, and one side of the sash belt, which threads around waist and having back part elasticated.  New buttons and bound button holes added.  Pink silks either side of front are blackberry dyed.

Embroidery designs over eco dyeing

Original source for Celtic Triskele design is formalised plant forms within a sphere.  Not being geometrically exact, the spheres have more loose design, to simplify embroidery areas, and can be added to according to shape within garment.  Shapes within Triskeles have been modified with lemon juice to discharge some of the left over dye colour, and to create definition in the design.

Embroidery detailed around discharged Triskele designs, over purple/pink areas

Chain stitch follows the outlines of the discharged Triskeles.  Freestyle 'roses' are created within the Triskele design.

Celtic Triskele shapes painted on with lemon juice to discharge blackberry eco steamed Ahimsa silk

This is an idea to design specific coloured areas in eco prints, to be afterwards embroidered with details.

13 Jan

Nigella Blues Smock

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

NIGELLA BLUES Smock Top Dress

Enough patches prepared from 'Tasmanian Blues', for a smaller garment.  Size and shape was dictated by the blouse used as an underlining, the colours of which were a perfect match, being cream brown and pale blue.  Short sleeves made in dark blue lace.  Coconut buttons with bound buttonholes [how to below].  Applique patches giant seed designs again created with eucalyptus dyed lace and bundle dyed silk.  Back hem is drooped lower.

AVAILABLE :  £85.00 - Direct from maker

Nigella Blues button up short sleeved smock dress - £90.00. [Shop coming SOON! and FOLKSY to add]

Nigella Blues Smock – Bound buttonhole sewing – Click to enlarge

Nigella Blues Smock – Applique making – Click to enlarge

Nigella Blues Smock – Making – Click to enlarge

03 Oct

Tasmanian Blues Robe Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

FEATURES:  Collar is of hand dyed silk, from natural Tasmanian eucalyptus tree bark dye  then painted over.  Silk sample designs see here. [add link]

APPLIQUE DECORATION:  Nigella Seed pod designs from my drawings of dried seed pods in my vegetable garden:  see seed photos on photography site resonant-visions Beige lace has a similarity to the thin casings of the pods as they break down.

BLUE Patchworks

Abstract with text print blue/white cotton-viscose.

Feather print navy-white cotton.

Navy blue lace lined on gold.

Stylised flowers blue-gold-navy cotton print.

Gold embroidered cotton.

PLUS :  Gold plant dyed silk. Leopard print blue-black-grey. Chinese Bird of Paradise with gold texture cotton.

Applique - Seed Pods of Nigella 'Love in a Mist'

Robe Dress has applique lace pod dyed in eucalyptus dye bath after the collar piece. Colour took well, which is a guide to fabric content being cotton or silk. Dark centres to seed pod designs are cut from eucalyptus dyed silk (iron modified).  Light centre to pod is from bundle steam died silk with seeds and petals.  Nigella blues has variable on same pod idea.  A motif is a good means to join over a seam (smock left top). Also provides contrast to break up a solid dark or light area.

Tasmanian Blues MAKING PROCEDURE

02 Jul

Abalone Diamonds Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

Summer smock styled dress with lace neck feature and diamond patchworks in abalone themed colours of fine fabrics.

Summer dress or over-top is light and cool,  Lace neckline yoke feature with gatherings of lightweight floaty patchworks under yoke.  Back neck button but not needed as dress fits over head.  Model is about size 10 to 12 (UK).

Dress on dummy shows additional yoke decoration and scalloped flap inserted between yoke and dress patches

 

Five different patch pieces used when joining the diamonds together in diagonal rows, stitching on the 'straight' (not stretchy) edge of a diamond.  Using a strong paper template, place Garment becomes 'cross-grain' with a good hang and flare.

 

Yoke lace is taken from a blouse, and lined with a fabric which has transparent blue roses (seen in the patches); which holds the entire yoke firm.  Same lining fabric is neck edging turnover.  Bottom of yoke open to insert patchwork portion; gathered at bust curve-over area.  This works well - see model.

Matt blue from blouse is used for decorative 'cover' over front yoke seaming, and as 'flab edging' over bust line. (not shown this photo).

Unique dress Abalone Diamonds  Size 36-42 inch bust.  Loose fit enables bust fit.  Shoulder to front hem 30.5 inches.    Hem circumference 80 inches

£140.00.   Shop to be integrated 2024:

03 Feb

Bluebird Kimono

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

BLUEBIRD - Modelled by Giorgia.   Simple one front button.

Kimono BLUEBIRD uses totally unique combination of nicely hanging fabrics: silk, polyester, polyester voile and viscose, for easy leisure wear, as dressing gown, or beach dress.   Front welt edge which forms kimono styled collar is identical to lining as a floral black/blue/yellow viscose shirt was used as a base to build the garment on.  Lining garment was extended with black fabric with turquoise flowers seen where extended to front to form 'hem'.

SIZE:  Loose all-size fit.  Three quarter length sleeves below elbow.  Up to 41inch bust. (105cm)  Back length 36.5 inches (92 cms)

No pockets.

BLUEBIRD available £175.00 :  direct from maker.  Price reflects one-off silk painting and full viscose lining.

(new purchasing coming soon...)

 

SILK PAINTING :  Front middle panels on left and right sides.  The silk painting was originally done independently, then blue coordinates were chosen from materials stock recently to create this garment.

Inspirations from Hopi Pottery of birds and seeds, from which I amalgamated an abstracted design. The blue bird-like image was from a stylised maize shooting from seed.  Hopi designs of birds and seeds had similarities of stylisation.

09 Jul

Summer Pinks and Butterflies

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments

Summer Pinks and Butterflies patchwork mini dress with sailor collar, front adjustable lace up tie, flared sides and inset flares at lower back.  Viscose, polyester and cotton.

Bust adjustable 34" - 38".  Model Anna is quite tall, so suitable shorter women, if worn as dress.  Sides are shorter than front. Front is (measure?).  Back is ?

Making tip:  Use a vest top to start or a sleeveless dress (this one has a pale abstract print sleeveless dress as a base with deep V neck).  Attach joined lengths of patches at high waist position of base top, continuing down; leaving space between lower patches to insert flares for overall flared dress result.  Attach triangular piece behind centre V to allow lace up loose.  Sailor collar is cut to fit, with straight grain across shoulders, and needs to be back faced or edged with contrasting binding fabric as this one.

SUMMER PINKS dress £60.00 available direct from maker. (SHOPcoming soon...) 

29 May

Dress Design Adaptations

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Upcycle makeover / / 0 Comments

Asymmetrical Cuts - Two dresses [SOLD] with diagonal cut features which enable panels to be joined at angles to flare the skirt section.

Purple Electric Asymmetrical Dress. (Sold)

Inspiration was two prints; white linen with lilac flowers and white cotton with abstract lilac illustrations.

Coordinating purple salt-splashed dyed silk top forms the soft bodice top.  Linen and cotton prints cut into rectangular panels joined to the top silk diagonals front and back.  Slashing the purple top diagonally gave a bias edge from which to attach the lower cotton and linen print rectangular sections which form a flare over hips as fabric falls.

The sleeve outline was followed but floral linen sleeves are added to shape contour.  Hem is therefore made integrally by this method, as a 'handkerchief' style with angles as a style feature.  Purple piped edges holds all the pieces together and purple linen is repeated in hem pieces.

(See Making Gallery bottom post)

Design Construction: Top with added panels

Often there are pretty tops which can have lower panels added to make a dress.  Shapes can be cut from tops and dresses, to create the princess front and back points.  Fabric from dress, or frills and lace can be added to top 'V' shape edges, with panels sewn behind.  Front centre lower panel is ecru linen embroidered. Black and cream print panels. Side panels are hand painted silk with grey rabbit designs.  Neck shape was original with top, but a contrast print could be used.     [Rabbits dress SOLD]

Mushroom and Black 'V' panelled long dress

Asymmetrical cut bodice top with added linen 2 inch border with black picot seam insert.  Skirt section of cream and black print panels, with embroidered linen front piece.  Side painted silk panels with rabbits.

02 Mar

Silk Painting dresses Kokopelli and Persian Piri

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

Two dresses featuring silk paintings of mythical figures from two different cultures.  Piri from Persian art meaning beautiful and graceful girl, or supernatural being similar to angels.   Kokopelli the flute playing seed spreader from southwestern Native Americas.

Persian Piri - Dress with 'Piri' feature silk painting

We get our word fairy from peri/feri winged spirit in Persian mythology. Fairy comes to us from Arabic which has no 'p'.

Dress modelled at Exeter Cathedral Green Craft Fair before crimson sash was added.  The sash echoes the sash in the painting. Dress began life as a short top without sleeves, collar, or lower frills: from an earlier created range with the Piri silk painting rectangles. A deep teal blue version was sold.  After finding the yellow ocre lace blouse in exact colour match; the collar, sleeves and frill were added.  The lower cotton abstract print frill was also added; which links to the Piri colours and gives a weight to the dress.

   PERSIAN PIRI available direct from maker: £120.00 - (new purchasing facility coming soon...)

Kokopelli - flute player features in silk painting with feathers, hand and spirals

Motif outlines were made with wax batik technique. Melted wax applied with a tjang gives a very fluid line and must be moved rapidly before wax cools, or causes blobs.  The feathers are outlined in nomal gutta resist for silk.

After applying dye, silk is steamed, and washed to remove any wax or other gutta resist paste used in the outlines.  Embroidery is used to give definition to motifs.

Habotai silk stretched on a frame.  Motifs of feathers, spirals, Kokopelli flute player, hand outlines. Resist outlines stop dye from spreading when applied.

Predominantly Kokopelli as a ‘fertility deity’ is a bearer of seeds and the flute could have been used to help the plants grow with music, or simply announce his coming.  Its quite likely such characters travelled for trade through South America and North America, as is believed from the rock petroglyphs.  Images show either head feathers, or antennae; some with balls on the end, which almost look like a map to the stars; which might indicate planting time, as recognised by star positions.

     Kokopelli (koh-koh-pell-ee) is a deity and symbol of fertility recognized by several Native American groups in the Southwestern part of the country. Like other fertility gods, Kokopelli is known to preside over both agriculture and childbirth….survived from the ancient Anasazi    Indian mythology. Kokopelli is also a prominent character in Hopi legends.

A Native American video explanation of how Kokopelli as a man, not a god, brings all the seeds from the previous world. The ‘flute’ maybe a medicine pipe.  He could be a simple seed seller, or it could even refer to past colonisation of earth.

   KOKOPELLI is available.  £95.00 Direct from maker.  (new purchasing coming soon...)

02 Dec

Garments Available Tabs

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Dressing Gown, Jacket, Skirt / / 0 Comments

HANDMADE ORIGINAL DESIGNS - A variety of leisure, fun and decorative ladies' patchwork. Garment NAMES and IMAGE lead to Making Post. Shop coming SOON! And some on FOLKSY 'Celtic Rose'.

Purple Shimmers Kimono Dress

Kimono styled below knee dress or evening dress, (same style cut as dress Aldebaran) in panels of purples, navy and floral print patchworks.  Close fitted back top, with skirt section gathered all around, slightly below bust into a high waist.

Adjustable front lacing.  Front lower skirt stitched closed but can be reopened to customer's preference for open lower dress below lace-up.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Raspberry Rose Celtic Kimono Dress

Sumptuous and totally unique kimono dress.

Mixed fabrics: including magenta pink-red velvet devore at back and a variety of silk dyed pieces at front, partially embroidered.

Silk Experiments with eco dyeing  - Ahimsa and Habotai silks.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to add]

Aldebaran Kimono sleeved short dress

Uniquely shaped, with deep kimono styled sleeves and collar front extended to hem.

Multi prints in Red-Pink-Black-Cream patchworks.

Knee length with lace-up adjustable front to adapt bust size.

Available to BUY on Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose

Abalone Diamonds Summer smock dress

Smock top summer dress.  Patchwork Diamonds in white, pale blue-green fine fabrics, (like abalone shell) and black/white.

Lace yoke front and back with gathers from yoke above bust. Multi bust size 34 to 42 inches due to gathers above bust.  Length: 31 inches

Available to buy in my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose 

Coffee Latte

Summer dress in coffee/cream/black patchwork: stretch cotton bandeau top which performs dually as a dress bust hold up or cummerbund if worn as a skirt.  Similar to dress Cappuccino.

White 5 inch fringe hem.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Butterflies and Pansies

Frivolous feminine tea party dress in pinks and maroon silk, with silk sleeves, pink-mauve shot taffeta and cotton with pansy print.

Silk painted front panel of nigella seed pod, butterflies and pansies on Ahimsa silk

AVAILABLE To BUY at my  Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Bluebird Kimono

Fun and comfortable leisure wear; blue patchwork house dress/kimono or evening coat

Multi-size.  Fully lined.

Panels of abstract bird silk paintings.

Available in my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to add]

Cappuccino patchwork sun dress

Summer dress in coffee/cream/black cotton patchwork: stretch cotton jersey bandeau top transforms into a skirt.

Coffee/gold/text coloured feature front patch piece print 'Love Never Dies'.

Lined in nylon jersey with cream print hem, dress with black lace hem.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Tropical Parrots shirt dress

Lose fit large shirt dress in olive green/black/bright pink with parrots print back, and beige green orange passion flowers front printed panel.

Lined in black viscose shirt with orange flower print: allows dress to be worn in reverse.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose

Tasmanian Blues

Robe or dress in patchwork blues, cotton and viscose; interesting prints of leopard, calligraphy, floral: below knee.

Collar is silk painted, in hand dyed gold habotai silk, from maker's eucalyptus bark dye session.

Unique applique designs of seed motifs; also in natural dyed silks and lace.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY SHOP Celtic Rose

Kokopelli smock dress

Shirt sleeved button fronted smock top dress in grey and lilac, with lower section gathered at bust line.

Lilac/white long striped sleeves have pre-existing turn up tab to elbow.  Muted grey/white viscose rose print front and back.

Front has large silk painting one side, featuring Kokopelli design from rock carvings.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose 

Persian Piri Dress

Dress converted from mustard yellow cotton/viscose tunic top, with pink/green abstract print lower frill.  Lace lower frill, sleeves and collar.  Extra long featured two toned pink sash added.

Maker's appliqued silk painted panel of 'Piri' figure from Persian illustrations.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose  

Nigella Blues

Shortie button up V necked dress in navy and light blue patchwork prints with short navy lace sleeves.

Additional feature of appliqued seed designs in naturally dyed silk and lace.

Available to BUY in Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose

Hopi Birds Red linen long dress

Scarlet linen, with linen and viscose back panels using Vogue pattern.

Ornate front polyester print.  Hand painted silk lower front tie-back panels of 'Hopi Birds' black/white.

Name derived from abstract bird designs on Hopi pottery.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [to be added]

Hopi Birds Grey pinafore dress

Pinafore dress with full silk painted bib front, and panels of thick grey cotton with silk piped

edgings.  Silk painted front panel of 'Hopi Birds', from Hopi potter designs.

Slim fit hips 34-35: model Marian

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY Shop Celtic Rose [ to be added]

 

Cherry Fluzzies

Two patchwork panelled dresses with bright cerise knitted buttoned tops.

Two variations:  An A-line knee length; and a flared wide skirt with frilled hem on knee

Both have same knitted top.

Available to BUY on my Shamanic Nights FOLKSY shop Celtic Rose (to be added)
22 May

Butterflies and Pansies Silk Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

Pink Champagne Tea Party Dress

Delightful summery patchwork fun tea party dress in pink, plum, lilac and pansy prints.

Pink silk top from a blouse has a bias cut across the weave grain so stretches across variety of bust shapes without other shaping.

Side zip under arm enables dressing.  Shot-taffeta changes from plum pink to lilac in light.

Author's unique Ahimsa silk painted front panel has butterflies and pansies, with centre design of Nigella seed pod and added embroidery.  Old rose lace is appliqued over corners which covers greener palm leaves on silk beneath.  Background of silk painting is logwood dyed batik.

 

A long pink silk sash was added to dress to fit smaller sizes at the waist: same silk as front bodice.

Fabric Inspirations

Pink/purple shot taffeta and pink silk were the starting inspirations.

Back centre panel is plum silk.  Brown/beige cotton print adds contrast; also multi coloured cotton pansy print.

The old rose lace lightens the effect over the long pink/lilac shot taffeta panels, and links with lace applique on front panel.

Sleeves were an added after thought from fine bundle-dyed silk sample. Lower frills are from a blouse.

Pink silk sash available.

BUTTERFLIES AND PANSIES available £165.00. direct from maker.  (new purchasing coming soon...) 

Fabric Coordinates and Background to Silk Painting

Choosing fabrics to go with the logwood lilac dyed batik Ahimsa silk

Partial painting butterflies and nigella seed pod motifs

Pansy print used to copy pansy colour ideas from

Purple, plum, and pansy print coordinates

 Silk painting with coordinate fabrics

Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.