Tag: hand made

09 Aug

Robes First Designs

LILAC LOTUS and JADE GARDEN  (available:)

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Lilac Lotus
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Lilac Lotus
 

A feminine gown inspired by white linen and white embroidery anglais.

Fabrics: White/mauve/olive silk: Black/lilac polyester leopard print:  Taupe poly-cotton with pink and jade machine embroidery (see closeups)
Construction: Variety of oblong patches with high back pleat for ease.
Lining:  Fully lined in white brushed cotton, extremely warm - suitable cool bedrooms.
Buttons: Two pale gold and white metal 'compass' design Liberty of London buttons.
Pocket: Right hand pocket set in seam.
Collar, cuffs, Sash belt:  Thick white cotton embroidery with decorative 'embroidery Anglais'.
Back length:   46 inches/117cm
Bust size: 32" 36" for UK 10-12
(model is size 8) Robe will fit to max bust 38 inches
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Lilac Lotus
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Lilac Lotus patchwork full length
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Lilac Lotus sleeve patch details
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Lilac lotus front patch details
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Lilac Lotus back view with pleat
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Judith Christie singer songwriter at Pilton Green Man Festival
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Linen Cruise
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Jade Garden
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South Sea Bubble
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Lilac Lotus

Jade Garden Robe (available)

 

JADE GARDEN Robe is a substantial everlasting garment in furnishing cottons, with deep rolled collar which would stand up for warmth.  Also suitable as a summer coat

Suitable as a winter gift where warmth is a priority.  Traditional style with gold embroidery highlights on the jade green poly-taffeta.

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My friend Coral modelling
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Jade Garden Back view
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Jade Garden front view
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Print: trees
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Print: French farm maiden
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Jade Garden Robe front buttons and collar

Robe Construction is of oblong patches.  Belt has now changed to sash-belt in printed white/lilac printed cotton seen in other patches. Green fabric is embroidered poly-taffeta, and must not be ironed on 'hot' or it melts (iron with cotton piece over top).  Buttons are pewter coloured.  Lining is brown cotton lawn lower, with cream satin upper part including turned back sleeves.

Note: Coral is 5 ft tall, so this is an under knee three quarter length robe on taller women.

Linen Cruise Robe  (sold)

Early inspiration for these robes was after acquiring a roll of parchment white linen. Teamed with white/navy prints and cream/white based patchwork prints.

Black cotton with pale grey embroidery was chosen for contrasting  collar/under-collar front facing, sleeve borders and sash.

This garment was chosen to feature with three others of mine at the 2013 Exhibition: Innovation in Textiles. See post 

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Linen Cruise sash tied
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Linen Cruise front open
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Linen Cruise modelled in Totnes Museum of Costume Exhibition
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Left Silk Painted panel copied from one of the patchwork prints

See robes featured in Exhibition Totnes Museum of costume

Oriental Cruise  Robe  (sold)

One of the earliest robes in large long patches of Cream and White Linen, Cotton and Viscose Prints of navy/white theme with added silk painted panels.

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Oriental Cruise

Upper sleeve silk patch is hand painted silk, an enlarged design copy of a smaller print used in other patches.

I can copy any textile design for commissions, change its scale, or create a new one based on any prints.

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Oriental Cruise back pleat
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Oriental Cruise front sash belt
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Oriental Cruise lower patched border

See robes featured in Exhibition Totnes Museum of costume

Purple Raj Robe (sold)

Patchwork purple robe: cotton and viscose with polyester lilac lining.

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Purple Raj patchwork robe closed front

Patchwork Construction:

Back of robe starts with an experimental chevron layout: turning standard patchwork construction blocks 90 deg. which give a diagonal grain, forming a bias cut, which improves the 'hang'. 

Arranged patchwork continues over shoulders, where patchwork blocks extend down front on the strait grain.  Worth experimenting with, although sides had odd angles to join, resulting in a deep kimono styled sleeve.

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Purple Raj robe, back diagonal patchwork

South Sea Bubble Mini poncho style robe (available)

Made when living in Cornwall, this patchwork was inspired by the viscose 'Bali' style print in blue, navy, lilac, olive.  Coordinate cottons and linens match these colours.  Construction is long rectangular patchworks, arranged diagonally starting across back ( see Purple Raj ).  Very loose shape allows fit for fuller bust sizes due to waist deep kimono-style sleeve shapes.  Main lining: Pretty violet soft cotton with lilac flowers. Sleeve lining: Pretty lilac soft cotton flower print.   Buttons: 2 large black-mauve pearl.  Front fringed edge is purely decorative.

I plan to add a blue print or applique over the pale yellow which is rather pale in contrast to the black/purple, under grey English skies.  Once on the lookout, something will turn up to match.

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South Sea Bubble mini robe violet cotton lining
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South Sea Bubble back and sleeve
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My friend Coral relaxes in the sea air in South Sea bubble
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South Sea Bubble front view with fringed front buttoning
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South Sea bubble back view shows diagonal 'chevron' patch blocks
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South Sea bubble shoulder close up viscose print

A comfortable warm and eye catching robe. Good for weight disguising due to poncho style.  Will accommodate any sized bust. Size 16 on the hips. Length 36 inches (910mm).  Front is joined by button so garment flows freely. 

23 May

Exhibition Totnes Costume Museum

Amelia Hoskins / Uncategorised / / 0 Comments

Shamanic Nights exhibition at the Totnes Costume Museum

Curated theme - 'Innovation and Fashion' - 23rd May‭-‭ 14th June‭ ‬2011

Exhibition Curator Hilary Burns I remembered from 1970s Textiles Degree course. She studied weave; myself silk screen printing. Now a basket weaver, she had also moved to Devon.  It was uncanny how she spotted my work at a craft fair and chose for the exhibition.

Museum receptionist, visiting Spanish student, models Linen Cruise

'Linen Cruise'  (sold)  Robe in white linen and viscose prints shows black underside lapel of white linen collar and front edging (cut two collars contrasting) and two patch pockets.  Front has silk painted panels.  Robe is loose T-shaped structure in patches with no traditional tailored 'armhole'.  A diamond gusset is inserted under arm, under the 'T' join. Patchworks are large and long as they were intended to be a bed quilt, until I changed my mind.

'Linen Cruise' 

Large rectangular patchworks in viscose and linen.  White linen wide front band and collar (see museum model shows black embroidered under collar).  Sash belt same: white/black.

Silk painted panel lower right of robe; design taken from another patch, changing colours to navy background to coordinate with navy viscose print bottom left front.

'Oriental Cruise' 

Exhibition featured first Robes made: using white, cream and ecru linens with viscose and cotton printed patchwork rectangles.

Upper left sleeve shows silk painted panel. Design was copied from a small scale print on robe, seen below arm, but with enlarged scale, and keeping same colours.

Robe sold.  A very pleasant scheme which may get revisited.

See more early original robes at Robes Summer Coats Originals

'Mandarin'  (sold)  Modelled by fashion student at Cockington Court Crafts Fair

Short heavy (furnishing weight) cotton kimono dress: deep no-fit sleeves and 'mandarin' Chinese style stand up collar, sleeve turn-ups and bound edged side pocket.

Patchwork contrasts of white/black toile design and orange poppies/olive leaves.  Black and white striped lining.  Unusual colour contrasts for me, but used up similar heavyweight cottons

'Mandarin' - Making

Named for a Mandarin-style collar made with a strip on a curve (cut x 2 on bias): Piped edge in black; also on pockets.  Patchworks of equal 8 inch x 4 inch.  For attractive 'turn-ups', use contrasting fabric.  Sleeves have faux turn-ups by adding black lace layer below last black patch layer, which turns back to be stitched also 2 inches up inside lining, to reveal black/white striped cotton-satin lining.  The seam formed when stitching to lining,  gives a thicker strong line, which will enable a turn-up to sit at the fold-up nicely.

Dress hem is same black lace as end of sleeves. Adding a bottom hem layer 'frames' the garment together; cut double to stitch down inside, encasing the edges of the upper patchwork.   Dress uses same striped fabric for front facing lining for interest.

 

'Bluebird'  (sold)

Dress was also chosen for the Totnes Museum Exhibition.

Features three fabrics: olive silk, royal blue linen, with 'bluebird' printed cotton.

Independent fabric colours were a perfect match for each other, the green silk blending well next to the printed cotton.

Modelled by keen browser in rainy Exeter crafts market.

 

Patchwork robes can be bespoke made to your measurements with your own fabrics. Send me details of your measurements to adjust dummy. If you have an idea of colours, I can show you photos of coordinates in my collection.  Silk painting additional quote on enquiry.

Making fee for standard kimono styled robe with collar extended down front facing.  Style tweaks can be arranged.

Long large patches:   Short to knee - £160,  Ankle length - £200.00

Small patches 8 inch x 4inch:   Short to knee £220,  Ankle length £260.00

Extra materials cost would be lining, as I do not stock new, although I have some thin white cotton in stock.  Robes need lining.  Summer dresses need not, as patches are over laid zig-zagged.
22 May

Tansy dyed silk

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Dye Bath 

  • Cut up Tansy flower tops and soak overnight in water (pond or river water if available).
  • Boil up in stainless steel pan; simmer for an hour or more until water is well coloured; then leave to cool to hand hot only. (Cotton can be simmered, but silk may get matted and rough if boiled).
  • Agitate silk in dye bath occasionally, redistributing evenly in liquid during first 15 -30 mins to ensure all areas are covered when first absorbing dye.  After first absorption, remove to a china or glass bowl, to agitate easily.  Use an upside down lid to keep silk beneath surface.
  • Transfer boiled liquid from steel pan to bowl for easy silk soaking and ocassional moving for even dye distribution.
  • Soak silk for some hours in cooled dye bath liquid.  The colour of the dye bath water is no indication of the final outcome on dry silk. Remove soon if you want a pale colour; leave overnight for stronger colour.
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22 May

Hopi Bird Silk Designs Dresses

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

Hopi Bird Silk Designs - Three Dresses

Red Hopi Dress - Peach Pinafore - Grey Hopi Pinafore

Red Hopi Dress has two front silk panels - black/red on white, and red/white on black. Coordinates with a red linen skirt and black viscose print used in the long red dress design.  Vogue pattern used: V1234 by Sandra Betzina.

Peach Brown Pinafore has pink/orange/brown abstracted bird and gecko design in sandy colours from Hopi pottery inspiration. No pattern. Shape copied from a dress bought in France.  (Pinafore Sold)

Grey Hopi Pinafore  Layered cotton panels of 'Per Una' skirt recycled with front silk panel of Hopi Birds with feathers and native American sayings. All dresses modelled by visiting Spanish teacher guest Marian

Grey Hop Pinafore - Design Motifs

Bird designs are 'curved' exactly as the originals on Hopi pottery, but applied to a two dimensional surface of Habotai silk. Feathers were added around the birds together with a selection of embroidered Native American quotations.

Printing Experiment:  Texture of gold on grey is made using cardboard print block.  Dried corn cob leaves which have fine narrow ridges were glued onto a cereal packet cardboard, varnished (acrylic water based) 3 layers.  The maze leaves fibre formation has quite pronounced ridges, which resulted, when printed, in natural looking printed lines.  I used epaissisant thickener with gutta as a printing paste applied to the cardboard printing block, then pressed on to the silk, and dried before adding the grey dye.  The end result after steaming was mostly a blur, but still provides an interesting painterly background texture, which could be developed with different colour overlays, where overlapping lines would create extra colours.

    Native American Quotations embroidered on silk: 

"Walk lightly in the spring: mother Earth is pregnant" ~ Kiowa

"Plants are our brothers and sisters; they talk to us and if we listen we can hear them" ~ Apache

"After dark all cats are leopards" ~ Zumi

"We will be known forever by the tracks we leave ~ 

Red Hopi Bird silk painting

Dress side panels show red/orange/black on white ground, and red/orange/white on black ground.

The vogue pattern facilitated side extended pieces which hang well in silk. Red linen bodice is made from a skirt.  Polyester red/orange print used for upper and center panel.

I've always been intrigued by Native American culture and found images of abstract bird designs of the Hopi Indians applied to pottery. They reached a height of decorative abstraction, adapting bird designs to fit over any curved pottery surface; a brilliant applied design, in natural pigmented black, terracotta and cream colours.

Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.