Tag: batik

22 May

Design Philosophy

Harmonising Designs

Design inspiration comes from seeing themes evolve between disparate fabric prints and colours, rescued to be recreated into a new unique garment artwork.

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Print patchworks in 'Jade Garden' robe

Textile Prints

As an artist and trained textile designer, I have a keen eye for colour harmony and the illustration and patterns in textile dress prints. The prints I source and collect are variously of a mix: classical floral illustrative, mille-fleur coverage (tiny flowers), geometric, abstract markings and astral space.  A combination of all these together with coordinating plain colours makes a good patchwork.

Not all prints are of personal favourite by themselves, but depending on their colours, I will see a way they would contrast or blend within a theme.  A dress full of rose bouquets can be cut up to introduce patch areas highlighting the best flowers.  A smaller piece of fabric can become more special than the full repeated print area.

Choosing Fabrics

Cotton lace tops (often cotton/acrylic mix) are another good find, as they can be layered over other colours.  Most synthetic lace fabrics also surprisingly take up plant dye to some extent, which removes any stark whiteness, too brilliant for patches amongst colours.

Choosing a print fabric to start with, start to make a pile with other colours and prints (5 is usually sufficient to start with).  As you do this, one choice may be removed and replaced with another, as the combined effect literally ‘shouts’ too dark, too light, too blue, too pink, etc., depending on the theme in mind. The most subtle patchwork is when the overall effect is of fabrics of a similar tone; i.e. nothing too light, nor too dark, on its own.  I often do include black with a strong colour collection, due to its fashion favouritism, but am more careful with lighter tones and darks mixed, when making patch-worked garments using panels larger than traditional patchwork.

Silk Painting Inspiration

The print designs on fabrics in each bundle of coordinates collection may suggest new design themes, using their various elements, to create a new design as silk painted panel.  I also use some elements to copy combined with other images of my own.  While working, I may be inspired towards a new design theme, to be developed yet further again.  Scale can be considered: a small image from existing prints can be enlarged as a main feature.  Colour mixing dyes to match the existing prints is an essential skill.

 

Videos are available of some silk painting works.

Ahimsa ‘Peace’ silk  has similar thickness to viscose: it is made by allowing the silk worm’s cycle to complete. I buy offcut remnants from an Irish fashion maker. Habotai silk (also used) is shiny.
Professional Kniazeff silk dyes fixes the colour through both sides when steamed (unlike some silk paintings of surface-only fabric dyes).
Machine washable, recomended at 30-40deg, Even the darker silk dyes are proven not to bleed out.
(Note: these wonderful dyes are no longer available from my supplier and I continue to eak out their remaining existence.)
22 May

Butterflies and Pansies Silk Dress

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Silk Painting / / 0 Comments

Pink Champagne Tea Party Dress

Delightful summery patchwork fun tea party dress in pink, plum, lilac and pansy prints.

Pink silk top from a blouse has a bias cut across the weave grain so stretches across variety of bust shapes without other shaping.

Side zip under arm enables dressing.  Shot-taffeta changes from plum pink to lilac in light.

Author's unique Ahimsa silk painted front panel has butterflies and pansies, with centre design of Nigella seed pod and added embroidery.  Old rose lace is appliqued over corners which covers greener palm leaves on silk beneath.  Background of silk painting is logwood dyed batik.

 

Fabric Inspirations

Pink/purple shot taffeta and pink silk were the starting inspirations.

Back centre panel is plum silk.  Brown/beige cotton print adds contrast; also multi coloured cotton pansy print.

The old rose lace lightens the effect over the long pink/lilac shot taffeta panels, and links with lace applique on front panel.

Sleeves were an added after thought from fine bundle-dyed silk sample. Lower frills are from a blouse.

Pink silk sash available.

Fabric Coordinates and Background to Silk Painting

Choosing fabrics to go with the logwood lilac dyed batik Ahimsa silk

Partial painting butterflies and nigella seed pod motifs

Pansy print used to copy pansy colour ideas from

Purple, plum, and pansy print coordinates

 Silk painting with coordinate fabrics

Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.